DasArts // Weblog / Block 25 Navigators Australia / 20.02 - 26.02 /

Although everybody had slept well, in the morning the activities of the animals during the night is quite visible. Goannas, frogs, spiders, snakes, and nocturnal mammals visit the camp in search for food.

The mayor brought his boat so we could go to catch crab or fish. The second attempt in the late afternoon was success full. Four fish, from which to of them were small shark, was the result. Especially the shark tasted very good.

In the evening the second half of the group went to Turtle Beach to watch the Green Fatback Turtle come ashore and lay her eggs in her self made egg chamber on the beach.

After an emotional goodbye to Thankoupi, we headed of to Mapoon in order to install a new camp. The Camp is situated in the dunes at the mouth of the river.

In the afternoon there was time to chat and learn bush medicine from local people or to go for a walk in the bush. In the evening the first half of the group went to the eco tourism project at Turtle Beach.

Today is a day with a completely filled agenda since it is the last day that we are staying at Bouchat. Because of this fact Thankoupi organizes a bonfire tonight. We will provide finger food for al local guests that are expected. We do not exactly know how many will come. Harco and Andreas walked to the mud plains of Mangrove Island for crabbing and in search for shells.

Other people prepared Jam and baked bread with the help of Thankoupi. In the mean while Mark succeeded to find an Internet connection and update the weblog. Local people went spear fishing in order to catch stingray.

In the afternoon a group of 10 participants went on board a small boat on order to re-in-act the landing of the Duyfken on Duyfken Point. Where a other group could not succeed in going of the boat in order to walk to the land, this group walked through the shallow water to the beach and was welcomed by all other participants and a lot of local people.

Not much later the bonfire was lighted and after an impressive speech by Thankoupi the dances started.

We went to Aurukun with the whole group to give workshops, get workshops and listen to stories of Silas and Arthur. Silas sat down with us under a wild mango tree and told us his story of the fights of his ‘grandfather’ with the Dutch sailors of the Duyfken. I was sitting next to him and already had a chat before he started in which he excused himself a few times. He explained us how his grandfather and other members of the Indigenous community killed 9 Dutchmen during the month that they tried to get on land in order to search for fresh water. They ate them all (more apologies).

The fight began because the sailors took two women to the Duyfken. Silas gave some more details on the killing but kept on apologizing himself for his ancestors. He was definitely holding back. Afterwards I spoke with him longer in private. He told me he did not want to offend the visiting Dutch people and that he was ashamed for his grandfather. But they should not have taken the women. We stressed that they are not aggressive by nature, but they had no choice. I told him not to be sorry and that his grandfather should have killed all people on board of the Duyfken. That way he could have lived in peace with his land much longer. Nevertheless He asked me to apologize on his account for his grandfather’s mistakes to my grandfathers, back in the Netherlands.

Harco

PS: Today was my birthday: 2 birthday cakes (with candles!) and lots of songs in many languages.

The day starts at the beach with a Welcome to country ceremony, performed by Thancoupie and other elders of the communities that we are visiting. They sing, and ‘baptize’ all of us with a handfull of water on our heads, so the spirits of the country will be with us. After this, we take part in a Sunday morning service with more singing, sharing stories. The influence of the Missionaires has far from vanished. Christian texts and songs are mixed in with ancient local beliefs and personal stories. We end up in tears, laughter and hugging each other.

We went crabbing. That means trying to catch mudcrabs. There are two ways to do it. The first is the lazy western way: with crabpots. Put some bait (fish) in the bottom of the nets, and place them amoungst the oisterbanks and along the mangroves. Once you are there you can have a taste of excuisite oisters also. Once the tide rises, the crabs emerge from their hiding places and enter the pots trying to catch the fish. Next day at low tide, you can see if you are lucky. Not being so lucky the next day we changed our tactics. We hade much more fun and success doing it the Aboriginal way. We walked through the mud, looking if any crab would arise, to defend himself. By fighting the crab with a stick you can get him into a bucket. Put some mangrove leaves on top to keep him quiet and go search for the next one. The claws are increadible powerful. They can snap your toe or finger right off. We got three big ones that day. Boil for 20 min. or 5 min. straight on the fire/barbeque and they are ready. Great taste!

The performance in the afternoon is the closing event of an afternoon at the Cultural Centre. They celebrate the 400 years anniversary of the Duyfken landing. In this part of Australia, the story is kept alive by the Indigenous communities, the rest of the country only knows about Captain Cook and the Endeavour. Peter, the shipper of the replica Duyfken that sailed the Australian coast in 2000, is there. It is great to meet him and realize that he and we in one way or another are all part of the same original story.

12 participants left for Aurukun, an indigenous community at 3 hours drive south from Weipa. They witnessed a house opening ceremony. This ritual is performed after someone dies, to invite the good spirits back in the house so life will return in it. The rest stayed at Bouchat to work on assingnments and the performance of Sunday at the Western Cape Cultural Centre.

Driving 8 hours in the OKA… except for lunch at the Archers river with a swim. Last swim for a while because of crocodiles inhabiting the waters. (this is what the drivers / guides say every day, but there always seems to be another opportunity the next day in an even more beautiful spot)

Setting up camp at Bouchat and welcome to country ceremony of Thancoupie (traditional landowner). 4 pacific style dressed women danced and sang (one landcruiser stereo for background music and stage light). The participants gave a small performance in return.

Twelve of the participants went on a boat to try to land at Bouchat like the Duyfken did 400 years ago. But due to tide, sandbanks, rocks and the amount of crocks and seasnakes nobody did actually disembarge… and they all returned by truck. It reminds us of the amazing efforts of the sailors in those days.

Laura Musgrave. Look at old Laura! Imagine 30 people walking into the woods trying not to make any sound that would scare off the 5 meter crocodile (and some smaller ones) that one of the guides has spotted on the river banks.

A small feast: last chance for beer and wine. We will be camping on the grounds of indigenous communities after this, and those grounds are ‘dry country’.

Today we made a walking trip to rock art with Fred Coleman and Steve Trezise. Steve is a local artist/owner of the campsite/only living human being in the area and knows a lot about the indigenous in this part of Australia. He gained his knowledge from his father and books. Sometimes his stories contradict the believes of Fred, who’s knowledge goes way back to his indigenous ancestors. There are several hanging rocks on the hill that we climb where people have made their paintings and sought shelter against the raising water in the wet season (up to 4 meters).

We went for a swim in Little Laura Creek. The water is low at this time of year, but the temperature and surrounding is great. On the way back, one of the two OKA’s has trouble crossing a creek!. Everyone has to get out and even help to push it back on its way.

Today was Jada’s birthday.

We set foot on a grassy hill, where Cook tried to map the surroundings and look for places for his ship to enter the coast, through the many corals and rocks. There is a monument to remind us. There is a beautiful view on the sea and the land, where later on the golddiggers would search for a passage through the great dividing mountain range.

The James Cook Museum tells stories of the first contact between Europeans and Aboriginals, but also has lots on display on the times of the goldrush and missions.

We had a quick look at Black Mountain National Park, Split Rock Gallery and Quinkan Cultural Centre and went on to Jowalbinna Bush Camp, a remote place, surrounded by walabi’s and cattle. The water for the showers is cleverly heated by a fire put underneath an oildrum.

Everybody sang songs of their own country at the campfire.
Exclusive: Tom Waits immitation by Ken for the ones that stayed up late!